Pakki Lamb Biryani

Biryani can be broadly divided into two types, Pakki and Katchi. Meat remains raw when mixed with the rice in Katchi style, hence the name (Katchi= raw). Pakki biryani is a relatively easy version where meat is cooked before adding to the rice thus negating the rigorous attention that is required to cook the meat by the steam of rice in katchi variety.

preparation time: 4-6 hours
cooking time: 1 1/2 hours

Photo credit Alpha

Preparation:

For the first marinade
Lamb on the bone, preferably a mixture of shoulder, chops and marrow with meat; cut to medium to large pieces: 2 kg
ginger and garlic paste: 2 tbs
Coriander powder 1 tsp
Cumin powder 1 tsp
Mace 1/2 tsp
grated nutmeg 1/2 tsp
Garam masala powder 1/2 tsp
ground turmeric 1/2 tsp, optional
black pepper 1/4 tsp
mustard oil or cooking oil 11/2 tbs
kashmiri red chilli powder or pimentón: 2 tsp
1 Onion, sliced, fried until crisp and crushed

For the second marinade
1 kiwi fruit skinned and crushed, optional
lemon juice/ raw papaya/ pineapple crushed 2 tbs if not using kiwi fruit
passata  1/2 cup or tomato puree 3 tbs, optional
sugar, 1 tbs, optional
yoghurt 1 cup
crushed fruits or lemon juice will be used 2 hours before cooking as acid based tenderisers actually makes the fibres tough if used in prolong marination. although kiwi fruit is not included in authentic recipes I prefer it over others as it is a better tenderiser and does not alter the taste.

For the rice
salt
basmati rice: 1 kg
water 10 cup
Caraway seeds/ShahZeera – 1 tbsp
Milk – 1/2 cup
Saffron strands – one big pinch
Bay leaves – 1
Green cardamom – 3
clove- 4/5
cinnamon stick- 1 inch

For spreading
2 onion: sliced, fried to crisp in ghee, keep the oil
slivered almonds and cashew nuts, 1/2 cup each, optional
dried berries such as dried plum ( aloo bukhara): 1/2 cup, optional
Kewra water: few drops, optional

Selling Biryani in Old Delhi, photo credit: magellano

Method:

  • wash the meat well. Then mix it with all the ingredients of first mariante. Leave it in the fridge for 4-6 hours covered with the cling film.
  • 2 hours before the cooking add crushed kiwi fruit or other tenderiser (papaya/pineapple/lemon juice) from the second marinate. Do not use yoghurt at this stage but add tomato puree/passata and optional sugar if not using papaya. You can omit tenderising stage all together for a easier life.
  • Soak rice in tap water for 30 minutes. Then wash it in several batches of cold water until water runs almost clear and drain.
  • grind saffron threads in pestle and mortar if available and add to the milk. Warm milk in microwave just before adding to the rice.
  • toast almonds and cashew nuts on a hot pan until start to release aroma, then keep aside.
  • take out the meat from the fridge and allow 10-15 minutes before the cooking for it to reach room temperature. Put it in a pot with one cup of water. Cook covered in medium heat and stir time to time. You will notice that meat is going through several stages while cooking. Once meat is tender, oil separated from the meat and approx one cup of gravy is remaining stop the cooking.  You may have to add hot water or adjust the heat if water is drying up before meat is cooked or turn the heat up if meat is cooked but there remains lots of gravy. Add yoghurt and mix well.
  • in a separate pan add 10 cups of water and salt and bring to boil.  Add the spices for rice except milk and saffron. After couple of minutes add rice and stir. Cook rice until 2/3rd done. Rice will reach this stage before becoming soft. It will be white not translucent as raw rice, still firm but easily breakable. Drain water. Warm milk in microwave ( it only takes around 10 seconds for milk to warm up) and add to the rice and stir.
  • heat the oven to 180°C or 350°F.
  • in a oven proof large dish put a thin layer of rice. This will prevent the meat from burning and getting stuck to the bottom. now put a layer of meat with gravy. Put another layer of rice. now spread half of the onion, nuts and berries and few drops of kewra water. Repeat the process with layers of meat, rice and spreading.
  • tightly seal the top with cling film, lead or foil or combination of any two! put it in hot oven for 15 to 40 minutes depending on the type of oven (fan assisted one will be quicker). Biryani is done once rice is cooked. Just before the serving gently stir with a large spatula to mix meat and rice bearing in mind that meat might be very soft at this stage. Serve immediately while steam still coming out of the rice.
  • Serve with chutney, yoghurt or cucumber and tomato salad.

Tips:
And thats a lot of biryani. photo credit: satish
  • you can add 4-5 green chilli and a cup of chopped mint/ coriander leaves to give it a distinct hyderabadi flavour.
  • for a easier life instead of buying the long list of spices you can use a packet of biryani powder to marinate the lamb. There are many biryani powders and pastes in the market with varying flavours. I found the shan bombay biryani powder close to hitting the right flavour note. In my opinion the right balance of flavour is everything for a good biryani. It should not be overwhelmingly spicy nor should it be as mild as a pilau. 
  • chicken, goat, beef even venison can be used to cook a biryani. However beef and goat being firmer than lamb will need to be tenderised and marinated longer but for the chicken 2 hours of marination might be enough. Overnight marination works best for most dishes including biryani as long as you are not using acid based tenderiser for reasons explained before.
  • you can try my katchi recipe too.





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